I am interested in these lights.

Couple of questions:
Why no DMX control?
Is this light ALL on or can it be placed on a Dimmer?

matt wassup? Hey i have used these just briefly. they are nice and bright i can tell you that. But im not too sure about the dimmer. I dont see why not but let me double check and get back to you. ok? Also it is really too small of a light to put DMX in it. And would prob jack up the cost too.
Sincerely,

I would agree. Adding DMX would up the price. But, if they are dimmer pack compatible, that would be great. Run a dimmer just like before and better power cable management.

I would think that if done properly(and ADJ tends to do that anyways), I bet they are dimmer compatible. For me, even full on/off works fine since I'd only be aiming it at a mirror ball anyways.

I'm looking into these LED Pinspots too.

Do you think these would work for lighting up table centerpieces? It would be great if these were dimmable but I've gotten conflicting answers and wanted to make sure before buying them.

Were you guys able to find any more info on this?

These would be great for lighting up centerpieces. you could even tape some gel colors in front of the lens to add color. I'll try to find out by the end of the day if u can hook these up to a dimmer pack.
Sincerely,

No They are not dimable..
As soon as a product can work from 90 to 240V, 50Hz/60Hz you can not dim it.

P.S. why does the locking pin fit like S**t, when you change to the wide lense??
I tried alot of them, and it shure is made in China!

I have 2 pinspot leds for my mirrorball effect but I am having issues with them not turning off all the way on my DMX dimmer pack. I have the dimmer pack set up as an on/off switch for the led pinspots. What happens when the slider on the board is off the lights will flicker/strobe at low brightness. I thought I had set the dimmer pack u pworng and put a regular pinspot and par can on the same channel and they both work correctly. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a problem I had with my cheap ADJ strobe and dimmer packs. I resolve that same issue by popping on a cheap 4-watt night light fixture on the other outlet on the channel.

LED's draw so much less power than an incadescent. It could be that the minimal amount of voltate is being drawn in and discharged as it reaches a "usable amount" in the capacitors.

The concept with the night light is that it will draw all the "usable voltage" and not leave anything usable for the LED when in the "channel full off" position. All I can say is it worked for the strobe situation. LED's are a bit different though.

I can certainly see your need to turn them on and off. Double check one more time that you have those channels set for "S"wiching mode. Sounds like you've already been down that road though.

What dimmer packs are you using?

The problem is while the dimmers are set to switch mode, they aren't actually switches. Voltage still passes through because the power is still running through the SCR and Choke in the dimmer pack. This means the voltage is still being dimmed.

Simply put, don't use it as a switch even though it is labeled as such. It is meant more of as a switch for incandescent lights.

I am using the elation DP-DMX20l. Would a resistor or just a higher load item like a small night light work? I will try it today and see what it does.

Seems to me that if a switch isn't acting as a switch, then it sure ain't a switch.

But I think what we're dealing with is a lack of properly defined terms. Supporting what SerraAva says, when in "switch" mode, it does appear to work correctly for incadescent lights. I've used it with my Hi-tech FX fixtures this way with no problem. With such minimal voltage(less than 4 watts), there is barely anything in there to excite the bulbs to glow.

Depending on how bored I get over the next few days, I may take a DP-DMX20L into the house. Not sure if it's a newer model or not, but it is my newest one, so I don't know if this one offers switching. But my Aviator 8 dimmer pack does offer per channel selectable dimming/switching. I'll also drag in my PP-DMX20L for comparison testing. The newer DP-DMX20L incorporates selectable dimming/switching per channel, which effectively makes current DP-DMX20L's capable of replacing the PP-DMX20L power packs.

Given a choice between a resistor option or a night light, I'd rather choose the resistor mainly since I don't want to put off additional light. My only reservation about going that route is that because I'm not an electrical engineer, I really don't want to build something like this without knowing for sure exactly what I need. Virtually all my DIY projects have been on the low power DC level, which is something I feel a lot more comfortbale with. But if someone gives me load values and parts for an "AC" model for this concept, I'd be more than happy to try it out.

It will take the extra voltage, yes. The problem is the SCR however which still butchers the sine wave. Even at 'full', the sign wave is still butchered a bit. The only dimmers I know of that have a true to life 'switch mode' are Sensors. In switch mode, they by pass the SCR and Choke.

I wouldn't put anything but incandescent lights on a dimmer period. The only two exceptions are newer model Sensors with a true 'switch mode' in them and Sine Wave dimmers. You will shorten the life of the dimmer or unit you are plugging into it or both. It is kind of like one of those questions support should ask you before you turn stuff in for repair, "Have you only plugged the unit into x voltage source?" If you say yes and have plugged units into dimmers before, you just lied.

Do the rack mounted dimmer packs have this true switching mode?

I'm about to stop the touring/mobile service and go into a fixed environment for a while, or so things are looking that way. Might be a time to sort of "streamline" some of my wiring.

How the hell I'm gonna get a 400 pound console up a flight of stairs is beyond me. And if people still want me to come out, man, it's gonna cost them because I gotta hire guys just to move stuff in and out now.

I tried a 300 watt par can and it was enough to turn off the led when the switch was in the "off" mode. I was wondering what the smallest load that would work. I don't have any 7 watt nights around here to try.