Title says it all, manual says nothing about proper clamping the DJ Spot 250 to a truss.
I love the lights but need to get them off the table!
Well, it really depends on what you want to do and how you want to do it.
I like the O-Clamps. They are non-marking and do a great job. And yes, they will hold a fixture in place no problem. I use a single with my Mystic(modified with a nut to ensure clearance) and it holds just where I want it and how I want it every single time and I leave that clamp attached to the fixture.
I fing the "wrap around" helps me take load off my hand sooner and therefore easier to tighten up.
S-Clamps and C-Clamps are also nice, but if you have a black truss, it's gonna chew through the powder coat or paint. Depending on HOW you do things, this may not be an issue. Some may require tools, most done. THere are other clamp types. I think I have some "Super Clamps" or something like that. Works great, but I'm not using then anymore.
ANother option is driven by what type of truss you have. The I-Beam trussing has holes for bolts, so you COULD bolt your fixture to the truss with very little problem. But if you're under the gun, maybe messing with a nut and washer isn't your idea of fun.
So, my choice: O-Clamps.
C-Clamps and S-Clamps work great too.
Get some safety cables too while you're at it. Might as well take the extra step and do it right.
Thanks Chris......good info.
Ultimate DJ Services
Oh, and here's some more information:
Despite some of my fixtures being heavy, the 0-clamps have worked fine.
Before you do end up taking the plunge, do a little reading. O-Clamps come in various sizes, so make sure what you order will work with your trussing. Likewise, see what other clamps catch your fancy also recommend. Some don't work on certain sized trussing, and in which case, they probably come in different sizes as well to accomodate different sized trusses.
Also, just as important, DO take into consideration what the recommended loads are for a particular clamp. While they are often over-engineered, don't exceed the rating or if someone gets hurt, even by accident, you're gonna lose by default because of that.
There's really no "best" answer. There's a lot of good clamp solutions out there by ADJ and other lighting companies. Find something you like and stick with it. Sometimes uniformity has it's rewards.
But, having said that, I still like my O-Clamps. I absolutely can't live without these things anymore! Works on my LTS-2 T-bars, my ADJ I-Beam trussing, my Sound On State trussing and T-Bars and a few other locations. I am using the 1.5" size, which I think is ADJ's most popular size for their O-Clamps.
I know this is overkill, but I use a clamp called the Mega Clamp. You can pick them up at Guitar Center. Black or Chrome.
They can hold like 200lbs a piece. I have them on each light as well as a 1/8" braided saftey cable.
If a light falls from my rig, thats the least of my concerns, because the building must be falling in as well.
Back on topic, I think the clamps are like $9 a piece, and are of the C-Clamp nature. So if your OCD don't get em b/c they will mar your truss. But I promise you they will hold ANY light you have.
That's what I have, a bunch of the Mega Clamps. 1 of 1 size and one big mondo one.
Yeah, those WILL hold just about anything. Well made, super durable. Definately a good clamp. I like them, but I like the ADJ O-Clamps better. Since all my fixtures are light weight(so to speak), the o-clamps work just fne. I also have an ADJ C-Clamp taht I used to use on my mirror ball motor because of the low profile. I've also swapped that for an o-clamp.
Things like clamps and safety cables are relatively inexpensive individually, but do add up in quantity. But, we want safe and we want secure so its always a good investment to purchase good durable quality clamps and safety cables.
I stopped using the Mega Clamps because I had to keep taking them off the fixtures between events. since it takes too much time to take them on and off at my events then because the event operators have no concept of time, I couldn't take the time to put the clamps on at each event.
It comes down to preference and purpose. I'm not going to sit here and say the o-clamps are better, or that the MegaClamps are better. I have both, so I can play both sides. Both have their applications and purposes. Find something you like, standardize on it. This way, no matter what you go with, you're good to go.
Use the clamps that came with the lights. I use them and they work perfectly fine. But the only downside is they only work on 1 1/2 inch trussing i believe, none the less they are exceptionally sturdy and have had my lights flown for over 3 years now
this is the clamp included, if you lost it... here is the link to order more http://parts.americandj.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ItemNum...Line=DJ%20SPOT%20250 $32/each is pricey, but they are worth it.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mark Stanley,
Help, with the accu spot 250 II they are 39lbs. The above bracket (2) came with the light but the bolts are a turn and lock type, not really a bolt that screws into the light. Do I need 2 O-Clamps to hold that light on a T-Bar or one. I want to put 2 lights up there and two on the table
Founding President Dallas/Fort Worth ADJA
Current VP of the DFW/ADJA
It really depends. I am all for "more is better", but when working a 40 pound fixture, it can be a pain in the butt.
I don't know what the O-Clamps are rated for, but they should work if you use 2. The nice part is that you can quickly get that light clamped and safe by wrapping and getting the other side of the O-clamp flipped on properly and there you go. Don't forget your safety cables.
Personally, I wouldn't put it on a T-Bar unless it's straddling the center. I just don't feel safe doing that. I'd rather mount it to the tripod stand itself and spread those legs as wide as you can!
I-Beam trussing? Yeah, I'd feel OK about that for a 10-foot span or on the outside spans on a 15-foot span.
Triangle or square? No, I wouldn't do it with the triangle DuraTruss. I just don't feel comfortable after seeing the connection parts up close. Going with Global truss, I have no issues in any of their stuff except I wish I could afford some.
I won't go into the caca-fests and drama that came before, during and after, but at a Clint Black concert, they took some what appeared to be 2" steel tubing(it was definately stage-type gear, good stuff!) They took these specialized clamps(oriented at 90-degrees, nothing new or original, just I don't get to see them up close often) and they 2 of those to secure this pipe to the top of the rear trussing, then on the part of the pipe sticking out in front of the truss they mounted their movers with 1 clamp. This light was definately 40+pounds, but considering it was a touring grade Bandit and the clamping system was partially built into the base, it was gonna take this no problem.
Chances are though, if you can, use the included clamp stuff because obviously ADJ is saying "Dude, this is what you use to mount this to a truss". My Q-Spot 150's(not ADJ) come with some sort of clamping hardware. I doubt I'll ever use that, only because my application has the lights sitting on surfaces and not mounted to trusses. Good to have the option.
Thanks for the advice. I think when the shipment comes I will try and put one a try pod and not the T-bar. I assume it will be more difficult to program for a rookie in dmx.
But thanks again for the heads up on t-bars.
Founding President Dallas/Fort Worth ADJA
Current VP of the DFW/ADJA
I just don't like the idea of trusting a plastic t-connector on a T-Bar to an unbalanced fixture. Granted, the plasic is very strong, but I have my limits of what I'm willing to trust it to.
For example, it's gotten to the point where one of 2 things happen so I feel comfortable. In my case, loading a T-Bar with 64 LED Pros.
Situation 1: Throw the stand up, put the T-Bar up. Load "inside one side, inside other side, then outside, outside". Keeps things better balanced. I prefer to start IN and work my way out. Inners, then outers.
Situation 2: Just set the whole T-Bar up on the ground to affix lights to, then put the T-Bar up on the tri-pod stand. I don't usually do this because I prefer to work up a little bit. Also, I feel it requires more cable clean-up, but that's just me.
I think yes, you will have some difficulties programming your fixture at first. I think once you get used it and play around with it a lot, you'll be good in no time. I suggest to yourself and others to really study concert DVD's and the lighting design at concerts and other shows. Get ideas, figure things out. I find seeing what others do often gives me ideas. My problem si that I don't get the time to try to react to those ideas.
Have fun, be safe!
Also, in the case of my Q-Spot 150's, I don't think there is a place to mount a "third party clamp". I would have to flip it over and take a look, but they are way back in the truck and it's too hard to get to them. Better wait for a show!
It could very well be that with most moving head/yoke fixtures, that the best way to truss mount them is via the included hardware. In fact, it might be the only way to to it. If so, then I'd be pretty sure that the company that made the fixture is standing behind that mounting system as "the proper solution for mounting this fixture on a truss". But as always, safety should always be a #1 concern. Common sense in this area should be gained from the past experience of others.
I have seen movers mounted in a wide variety of ways. In some cases, some did not look safe, but that was also tied to how other trussing was arranged. But with the trussing solid and safe, that goes a long way to overall safety.
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